In Thailandia avevo una simpatica amica. Per lei il sentiero verso la felicità passava attraverso lo stomaco e la regola era semplice: "tre cose ti rendono felice: le banane, il cioccolato e i noodles". Non aveva tutti i torti! Io vado pazza per i noodle, a zuppa o saltati in padella o in qualsiasi altro modo, me li godo fino all'ultimo. E qui a Phnom Penh é sulla via 13 #213 che ho trovato il mio angolino di felicità. Noodle freschi fatti a mano, letteralmente! Dopo che l'assistente ha impastato la massa per bene, arriva lo chef che continua a tirarla e allungarla fin quando è pronta per essere sfilata in decine di noodles. E' velocissimo, intreccia, allunga, piega, allunga, ripiega e riallunga, taglia e giù in pentola! Gnammi!
Saturday, 27 October 2012
Noodle lover
Location:
Preah Ang Eng, Phnom Penh, Cambogia
Thursday, 25 October 2012
Lo scontrino/The receipt
Lo scontrino é enorme, nuovo e inaspettato. Siamo al mercato. La pausa pranzo ci costa un dollaro in totale e il tè ci viene offerto, prassi comune. Lo scontrino parla chiaro: 3000riel = cibo, 1000riel = riso. Totale 4000riel (=1$). La ricevuta è completamente inutile, ma almeno è un simpatico souvenir.
$$$ $$$
The receipt is huge, new and unexpected. We are at the market, having our lunch break for only one dollar, and tea is for free according to customs. The receipt speaks for itself: 3000riel = food, 1000riel = rice. Total 4000riel (=1$). This receipt is totally useless, but quite a fun souvenir.
Monday, 22 October 2012
Quando muore un re/ When a king dies
Non é facile capire la portata (storica) di certi eventi qui in
loco non avendo alcun punto di riferimento culturale nel proprio sistema di
idee. Come ci si sente quando muore un re? In Italia non c’è il re. In
Belgio c’è ma non a tutti interessa. Nel Regno Unito c’è una regina, famosa
quanto vecchia e chiacchierata, ma come si sentirebbe un britannico se venisse
a mancare (per carità...god save the queen!)? In quanti
si riverserebbero a Buckingham palace, giorno dopo giorno, mese dopo mese,
portanto fiori, incensi e candele, e aspettando il calare della notte per
congiungersi in preghiera? Da già cinque sere, il Palazzo Reale a Phnom Penh
non si affaccia più su un prato di erba verde, ma su un tappeto di gente.
Migliaia di persone, inclusi vecchi e bambini, popolano l’area tra il Palazzo e
il fiume. Lo spettacolo non ha paragoni. Sará per mancanza di
un’espressione migliore che paragoniamo i reali d’Asia a delle divinitá, o
magari semi-divinità, perché sembra questo il trattamento riservato al loro re.
Riuscite a immaginarlo? Cliccare su Foto!
*** *** ***
It’s
not easy to understand the significance of certain local events when lacking
any cultural point of reference in one’s own system of values/ideas. How does
it feel when a king dies? There is no king in Italy. There is one in Belgium,
but not everyone cares. There is a queen in the UK, as famous as old and talked
about, but how would a British feel if she would be missing (oh goodness, god
save the gracious queen!)? How many of them would flock to Buckingham palace
day after day, month after month, offering flowers, incenses and candles, and
waiting for the nightfall to join all together in prayer? It has already been
five nights that the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh no longer faces a field of
green green grass, but a human carpet instead. Thousands of people including
children and old wo/men come together in the area between the Royal Palace and
the river. It’s a spectacle with no comparison. It might be for wanting of
a better expression that we compare the Royals of Asia to deity, or semi-deity.
Here, today, an almost deity-treatment is reserved to their king. Imagine that.
Click on photos!
Wednesday, 17 October 2012
The day Sihanouk returned home ♣ Il re torna a casa
When I heard that (former) king Sihanouk had passed away, I was on Rabbit island, Koh Tonsay. Away from the hustle and bustle of the city, the slow-paced swing of the island gave nothing away and it seemed nothing had really happened. Inscrutable folks, the Asians. A motorbike driver in Kep, with a beer in his hand, simply commented: "you know, today we are very sad, our king died". Today, back in the Penh, the ambience was almost surreal.
I had never seen Phnom Penh this quiet. The traffic along the riverside and all around the Royal Palace had been closed off. People started to flock to the Palace since early this morning leaving flowers, incenses and a prayer. Almost everyone was dressed in white and black, with a black ribbon on their white shirt. People walked quietly in order, showing respect. People waited, showing no fatigue. Once the departed reached the Palace, there was no scream, no applause, but silence. It lasted a few minutes, then the gates closed. And then back to daily routine. Today calm has reigned in Phnom Penh.
♣ ♣ ♣ ♣ ♣ ♣
Quando la notizia della morte di re (ex) Sihanouk mi ha raggiunta, ero sull'isola del coniglio, Koh Tonsay. Lontano dal trambusto di città, il ritmo flemmatico della vita isolana non faceva trapelare niente e sembrava che non fosse successo niente degno di nota. Un popolo inscrutabile, gli asiatici. A Kep, un autista di moto, con una lattina di birra tra le mani, si era limitato a commentare: "lo sai, oggi siamo molto tristi, il nostro re è morto". Oggi, di ritorno in città, l'atmosfera era quasi surreale.
Non avevo ancora visto Phnom Penh così tranquilla. Il boulevard lungo il fiume e tutto intorno al palazzo reale è stato chiuso al traffico. Oggi neanche un tuktuk ha fatto volare via i piccioni. La gente ha cominciato a riunirsi al palazzo reale da questa mattina presto, portando fiori, incensi e una preghiera. Quasi tutti vestiti in bianco e nero, con un fiocco nero sulla camicia bianca. La gente ordinata e composta, rispettosa. L'attesa, ordinata e composta, facilmente sopportata. All'arrivo della salma, nè un grido, nè un applauso. Il silenzio. E' durato qualche minuto, poi i cancelli si sono richiusi. E ognuno, poco a poco, è ritornato al solito tran-tran. Oggi in città ha regnato la calma.
Friday, 12 October 2012
And I thought to be not into it ♠ E io che pensavo non mi piacesse!
| @ Phnom Penh old stadium |
Okay. Enough of introducing you to neighbours and colleagues. Let's talk about serious stuff: KHMER BOXING! The past weekends have been quite lively in my neighbourhood as everyone seemed to be watching the fightings on tv. But going to watch one live...better than footbal, I would dare say! I am happy that the tuktuk driver completely changed my plans of the day and brought me there! You have got to see it with your eyes, and listen with your ears, so hopefully you enjoy the videos (below)!
♠ ♠ ♠ ♠ ♠ ♠
Ok, basta presentarvi vicini e colleghi, parliamo di roba seria: la BOXE CAMBOGIANA! I fine settimana passati sono stati abbastanza vivaci nel mio quartiere; sembrava che tutti fossero impegnati a guardarsi i combattimenti in tv. Ma andarli a vedere dal vivo è tutta un'altra cosa...meglio del calcio, oso dire! Son contenta che l'autista di tuktuk abbia completamente cambiato i miei piani della giornata portandomi a vederli! Dovreste vedere coi vostri occhi e sentire con le vostre orecchie, ma facciamo che vi faccio vedere i video!
First fight: Cambodia (red) VS Thailand (blu). Listen to the music that accompanies the moves. It seems that they are actually dancing on it...It fascinates me. ♠ ♠ ♠ Primo combattimento: la Cambogia (in rosso) sfida la Thailandia (in blu). La musica di fondo accompagna i loro movimento. Fa credere che in realtà stiano danzando. Ma quanto mi piace!
Al quardo combattimento, Cambogia VS Belgio. Entrambi pesano 110 kg, il cambogiano ha 22 anni, il belga 18! Risultato finale? Il belga batte il cambogiano al 3° round. Folla estatica. ♠ ♠ ♠ Fourth fight, Cambodia VS Belgium! Both of them weight 110kg each, the Cambodian is 22 years old, the Belgian is only 18. Final result? The Belgian beats the Cambodian big time. The crowd is ecstatic.
Wednesday, 10 October 2012
The colleagues!
My colleagues are very friendly. I liked them from the start. They also remain professional from 8am to 5pm. But after 5pm, once work is over, they become even more professional...at ping-pong!
=== = ===
I miei colleghi sono molto amichevoli. Mi sono piaciuti da subito. Restano anche professionali dalle 8 del mattino alle 5 del pomeriggio. Ma dopo le 5, al termine della giornata lavorativa, diventano ancora più professionali...a giocare a ping pong!
Monday, 8 October 2012
Meet the neighbours - vi presento i vicini
It's a chill evening. It's 7 o'clock and the neighbours are quiet. I can't help to nose about. The family on the upper floor (up left) is quiet on the balcony. Not everyone is there yet. Dad and son are watching tv, one swings on the hammock while the other is also busy with some video-game. Lights are always off on their balcony. Next to them (up right) lives a couple. He's a Westerner with white beard, and she's a young Khmer with long black hair. They both love to stand outside and watch the rain for hours. They just turned the lights off; going out? Downstairs (bottom right) the lady in green entertains herself by watching the activity on street 15. I suppose they are hard workers as there's never much activity at their place. Next door to the left are my favourite ones. There's always lots of people at their place, many kids and a skinny granny. They are having dinner. They use nor table neither chairs, but just sit down in a circle. Once dinner is over, mum would sweep the floor while the kids lie around...I still haven't managed to count all of their children!
☻☻☻ ☻☻☻
Sono le 7 di sera, l'aria è fresca e i vicini sono silenziosi. Mi metto a curiosare. La famiglia del piano di sopra (sù a sx) è tranquilla sul balcone. Non ci sono ancora tutti. Padre e figlio guardano la tv. Uno dondola sull'amaca mentre l'altro ha un anche un video-game tra le mani. Il loro balcone è sempre a luci spente. Accanto (sù a dx) vive una coppia, lui occidentale e barba bianca, lei giovane e del posto, con lunghi capelli neri. A entrambi piace affacciarsi fuori e guardare piovere per ore. Hanno appena spento le luci, staranno uscendo? Al piano di sotto, la signora in verde (giù a dx) s'intrattiene a guardare il via vai giù su street 15. Suppongo che a casa loro lavorino tutti e tutto il tempo, non si vedono spesso. Accanto (giù a sx) stanno i miei preferiti. Da loro c'è sempre tanta gente, tanti bambini e una nonna magrissima. Stanno cenando. Non usano nè sedie nè tavolo, ma si accomodano sul pavimento in cerchio. Terminata la cena, mamma spazza e i bimbi oziano in giro...Non sono ancora riuscita a contare tutti i bimbi!
Saturday, 6 October 2012
And on to Cambodia!
Inspiration kicks back in on a unique background: the rumbles of a motorized city, the gentle panorama of Cambodia's endless ricefields, the freshness of the rain at night, the puzzling Khmer smile. Phnom Penh will be my base for the next months. To virtually welcome you to this fascinating place and among the Khmer, I will share with you this beautiful video*, set in the city on a day of heavy rain, one like many during this rainy season. Through the endurance of people and these both ordinary and exceptional scenes, one clear message comes to the surface: no matter what, life goes on...
♦♦♦ ♦♦♦
L'ispirazione ritorna viva su uno sfondo unico: i rimbombi di una città motorizzata, il delicato panorama delle infinite risaie cambogiane, la freschezza della pioggia notturna, l'enigmatico sorriso khmer. Phnom Penh sarà la mia base per i prossimi mesi. Per darvi virtualmente il benvenuto in questo posto affascinante e tra la sua gente, voglio condividere con voi questo bellissimo video*, girato in città in un giorno di tanta, troppa pioggia, come tanti durante questa stagione delle piogge. Tra scene eccezionali e abituali e il persistere della gente, un chiaro messaggio viene a galla: nonostante tutto la vita continua...
* (C) Todd Brown, met in Thailand one year ago by chance/Incontrato fortuitamente in Thailandia un anno fa.
Monday, 6 August 2012
Piccolo barman
In barba a qualsiasi scrupolo di tipo igienico, questi bimbi olandesi girano per il parco raccogliendo intere torri di bicchieri di plastica vuoti.
Perchè?
Per inculcargli quel senso d'ambiente ed ecologia che pare così tanto diffuso nel nord d'Europa? Per tenerli occupati con qualcosa mentre gli adulti fanno festa? Per giocare a chi ne piglia di più?
Perchè così ci guadagnano delle caramelle, mi è stato detto...
Why is that?
Is it so that they can interiorize that sense of the environment and ecology so widespread in northern Europe? Is it just to keep them busy while adults party? Is it to play at who-catches-the-most?
I was eventually told it is because they will earn candies...
_________________________________
Carelss of any hygiene considerations, these Dutch kids go around the park collecting empty plastic glasses making plastic towers with them. Why is that?
Is it so that they can interiorize that sense of the environment and ecology so widespread in northern Europe? Is it just to keep them busy while adults party? Is it to play at who-catches-the-most?
I was eventually told it is because they will earn candies...
Monday, 21 May 2012
Pinot gris et tarte flambée
| At La Maison du Pain d'épices in Gertwiller |
I admit it, I know nothing about France. I've been to Dunquerque for Carnival and twice to Paris. The first time I hated it, the second I loved it. Clearly, I have been having mixed feelings about the whole country and its people, so proud, so patriotic, so snob, so French (?!)...
But then we went to Alsace for a weekend...and loved it! All of a sudden France was a beautiful place and the French were friendly, smiling and fun. I swear I'm not saying this under the effect of several glasses of Alsacian wine, though wines, tartes flambées, and a gentle green landscape might all have contributed to make Alsace a very appealing place to us.
Strasbourg and Colmar are generally the most known places in the region, though the Route du Vin between the two cities, passing through small towns and villages is just as pretty and enjoyable. After this trip we certainly want to explore more of France and will probably keep using our Belgian accent just for the fun of it...Allez, hein!
Strasbourg and Colmar are generally the most known places in the region, though the Route du Vin between the two cities, passing through small towns and villages is just as pretty and enjoyable. After this trip we certainly want to explore more of France and will probably keep using our Belgian accent just for the fun of it...Allez, hein!
Tuesday, 15 May 2012
Cars and tennis balls
Gotcha!
A Few weeks ago at the Brussels Design Market, I remember having seen various metal bars stuck on tennis balls. I didn't get that. Was it meant as art, or provocation or as a form of material culture alien to me...what was it? Then I was told it is apparently a not so uncommon practice to use a tennis ball on the metal hook at the back of the car if the metal ball on the hook gets lost. The tennis ball then prevents (so it went the explanation) the metal to rust away. Somehow I found it quite interesting. So, a few days ago we were driving around the Merode area when I noticed a tennis ball strangely placed at the back of a car and finally really got what cars and tennis balls have to do with each other!
Thursday, 26 April 2012
Call it unusual...
A myriad of "unusual aesthetical objects" was on display last weekend at the Design Market. Among exquisite vintage cars, countless chairs that have possibly marked the history of interior design, and various objects from the 1950s and 1980s, some unusual things definitely caught everyone's eye. In my modest opinion, the oddest winners of the contest I just made up were:
- A leg-table (not a table leg), with sensual female legs, but possibly obscene;
- a toad, mouth-open full of hearts, quite cute;
- an alien looking sculpture...don't we all imagine aliens to be green and have three eyes?!?
- a wooden couch with hypnotizing designs, including table, quite uncomfortable. And last but not least...
- Pluto! Still wondering what its function could be...
Tuesday, 10 April 2012
Once in a decade
| Frozen canal by the Flower Market in Amsterdam |
I wrote my last post from a tropical country during summer time. The contrast with today couldn't be more obvious. After a hint of spring in the past weeks, winter has come back with its monotony and greyness. Winter is the season I like the least, it is all dull and not much happens. But to be fair, this past winter had some spectacular moments too.
About once in a decade, the canals in Amsterdam freeze. Last time it happened it was 1997! This year it happened again! It's an event to be celebrated and at least to be seen, if one can. Many have visited the country for the occasion, and the Dutch just couldn't resist having a lot of ice-fun and ice-skating! Among my favourite cities in the world, Amsterdam has already a magic atmosphere, but the frozen canals sure add an extra thing to it. Overal, a memorable experience and one of the best winter days of 2012!
Friday, 22 July 2011
Top of Bangkok!
On top of my age I have been on top of Bangkok! Seriously, I couldn't have imagined of a better treatment on my birthday! No massage or exquisite dinner would have been as special compared with Bangkok by night. An horyzon of sparkling lights, the breeze of the night on my face, the eternal movement of the boats on the Chao Phraya river...Time to go back home. Two months have been just the right time for a first taste of Asia: short enough not to miss anything from home, not to start routines, and long enough to get a feeling of 'how it works' over here...though not enough time to get this inscrutable folk. I rather have to say that the more time I spend here, the more I have no clue of what really is going on! Next time maybe...
*** *** ***
Un anno piu' grande e non un centimetro piu' alta, ma in alto si' ci sono andata: in cima a Bangkok! Sul serio, che regalo, non potevo immaginarmi trattamento migliore per il mio compleanno! Nessun massaggio o cena squisita avrebbe retto il paragone con la Bangkok notturna. Un orizzonte di luci sbrillucciolanti, la brezza della notte sul volto e l'eterno movimento delle barche sul fiume Chao Phraya...E' ormai ora di tornare a casa. Due mesi sono stati il periodo giusto per avere un primo assaggio di Asia: abbastanza corto da non farsi venire nostalgie di casa, da non cominciare alcuna routine, e abbastanza lungo da farsi un'idea su come funzionano qui le cose...ma comuqnue non abbastanza da capire questo inscrutabile popolo! La prossima volta magari saro' piu' preparata.
Wednesday, 20 July 2011
Elephants and flat noses - Elefanti e nasi piatti
L'Isaan e' la regione piu' a est della Tailandia, e' la piu' grande, la piu' popolosa e la piu' povera. 1/3 dei tailandesi vive qui; un milione di persone originarie dell'Isaan vive a Bangkok per lavoro, rappresentando cosi' circa 1/6 della popolazione della capitale. Pochi farang si avventurano nell'Isaan, eppure e' una parte della Tailandia ancora nuda e cruda. La gente ha pelle scura e nasi piatti (caratteristiche che la società thai associa alle classi più umili), occhi e capelli nerissimi. Una leggenda metropolitana vuole che se ponendo un indice dalla punta del naso fino alle sopracciglia, sotto l'indice ci passa un altro dito, allora quella persona viene proprio dall'Isaan. E' gente semplice, gente di campagna, che se vedono un farang lo seguono con lo sguardo, commentano chiedendosi tra se' e se' cosa ci faccia da queste parti. I bimbi ti indicano e ridono senza vergogna. L'Isaan e' una regione calma, generalmente pianeggiante e verdissima, costellata da mille risaie dove la gente lavora china su se stessa per ore, e popolata da un sacco di elefanti. La citta' di Surin in particolare e' famosa per questo e per una specie di festival annuale, a novembre, che vede gli elefanti far un po di tutto, dalla colazione, alla marcia, alle battaglie. Dubito che vedere tutto ciò mi entusiasmi. Ma a proposito di elefanti, e non c'entra niente con l'Isaan, la mia birra preferita e' la Chang, che in thai vuol dire elefante. L'altra birra famosa, la Singha, vuol dire leone. La Leo, che non vuol dire niente, ha una tigre disegnata sulla bottiglia/lattina...chissa' che la prossima birra che si inventano non sia dedicata alle scimmie...
Tuesday, 19 July 2011
A taste of Cambodia - Un assaggio di Cambogia
| Phanom Rung on top of the volcano |
Saturday, 16 July 2011
Sanuk
| Rain is so fun! |
Sanuk is one of those Thai words that opens a window onto a culture. There is no knowledge of Thai society if one doesn't get what sanuk is. It means fun. And anything a Thai does has to be fun. If it's not fun, it has to be turned into fun. Example, Thai people do not complain about their jobs. They would find the way to enjoy what they do, to make it fun for themselves. They have fun altogether, but also when alone. They would improvise. I find children as the most exquisite example of such concept. I have seen children having huge fun just with nothing: with tearing apart a piece of paper and then use the pieces as a puzzle; with throwig a string in the mud and then try to be the first of your friends to find it; with squeezing a plastic bottle and making it flat to slide down a road; with putting the head in a plastic bag, in a day of rain, and jump in all the puddles around...They might have not much, no toys, no nintendo, no crap. But what they do have is having fun!
*** *** ***
| Using plastic bottle for sanuk purposes |
Friday, 15 July 2011
Mango, kha!
| Fruit vendor on the beach |
Before going to Ko Samui I had tons of intentions, like to do snorkeling, scuba-diving, partying all night long and do islands hopping - 'in few days I could see them all!' Yoo-hoo! Then, I actually arrived on the island and got completely taken by its rhythm. No more hopping anything, no more ruthless partying, but simply relax. Priceless relax. Once I had found my spot under coconut palm trees, I conceded myself to any amenity and sellers' offers. They would slowly come, one by one.
"Miss, you like bracelets, shells, sunglasses, beachrobe?!
..."Let's have a look!"
"Springrolls and barbequed chicken?"
...'No, thanks (I'd like something fresh though)
"Long massage in the fresh shadow on the beach?"
..."You are kidding me?! Sure, go ahead!"
"Mango, pineapple, rambutan, banana?"
"Ma muang, kha (mango, please)!".
Life is good.
"Miss, you like bracelets, shells, sunglasses, beachrobe?!
..."Let's have a look!"
"Springrolls and barbequed chicken?"
...'No, thanks (I'd like something fresh though)
"Long massage in the fresh shadow on the beach?"
..."You are kidding me?! Sure, go ahead!"
"Mango, pineapple, rambutan, banana?"
"Ma muang, kha (mango, please)!".
Life is good.
*** *** ***
Prima di andare a Ko Samui avevo un sacco di intenzioni, come di fare snorkeling, immersioni subacquee, andar di festa per tutta la notte e saltare da un'isola all'altra...convinta 'in pochi giorni le avrò viste tutte!'. Poi però sono arrivata sull'isola in sè per sè e mi sono completamente lasciata prendere dal suo ritmo. Niente più andare per nessun'isola, niente più feste spietate, ma semplicemente relax. Senza prezzo. Trovato il mio posticino sotto le palme di noci di cocco, mi concedo ad ogni venditore e amenità che passa. Lentamente arrivano tutti, uno ad uno...
"Signorina, vuole bracciali, conchiglie, occhiali da sole, parei?"
...'Ma ssí, guardiamoli un pò tutti'
"Involtini primavera e spiedini di pollo?"
..."No grazie" (mi andrebbe qualcosa di fresco però)'
"Massaggio lungo all'ombra sulla spiaggia??"
..."Ma dici davvero?! Come no!"
"Mango, ananas, rambutan, banana?"
..."Ma muang, kha (mango, per favore)!".
Ah, che pacchia la vita.
"Signorina, vuole bracciali, conchiglie, occhiali da sole, parei?"
...'Ma ssí, guardiamoli un pò tutti'
"Involtini primavera e spiedini di pollo?"
..."No grazie" (mi andrebbe qualcosa di fresco però)'
"Massaggio lungo all'ombra sulla spiaggia??"
..."Ma dici davvero?! Come no!"
"Mango, ananas, rambutan, banana?"
..."Ma muang, kha (mango, per favore)!".
Ah, che pacchia la vita.
Thursday, 14 July 2011
Panorama
| View of the islands from Wua Ta Lap island |
At the stunning, breathtaking view of Ang Thong National Marine Park I slowed down my pace and remained in contemplation of a natural beauty made up of 42 inhabited islands encircled by coral reef and covered in tropical rainforest, limestone cliffs, white deserted beaches and hundreds of coconut palm trees! There, on the top of their dramatic high walls of rock, are viewpoints that must be climbed til the top!
*** *** ***
*** *** ***
| Storm over Ang Thong Marine Park |
Wednesday, 13 July 2011
Two worlds apart, one island - Due culture, un'isola
| Sunrise in Ko Samui |
Fishermen and sunrise hunters get up early in Ko Samui. Others doze off until the sun is so hot that they are sure they are going to tan (and burn). Fishermen and locals, instead, tend to wear long sleves all day long as they do not like becoming darker than they already are. In Thailand having dark skin is synonym of a life spent working in the fields, or at the sea, rather than in a 'lovely' office away from the sun. A dark skin is almost a shame. What they might think of all these white tourists lying in the sun, I don't know. That they must be crazy? Crazy people full of money anyway!
*** *** ***
| Few hours later, Bo Phut beach |
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