Au Vieux Spijtigen Duivel

I was walking to the maison communale of Uccle in the early afternoon of one unbelievably pleasant winter day, as almost everyday in the past days. Strolling under the blue March sky, I took new roads to explore a bit of Uccle. I had no particular expectations, but as soon as I turned the corner of Av. de Floréal and Alsembersesteenweg, I found myself facing Au Vieux Spijtigen Duivel. It might look like nothing worth noticing, but it had that typical, unmistakable charm that old things so well retain. That old writing font, so typical of Brussels, and the French/Flemish combination of its name suggested historical relevance at least. Turns out that the old 'Spijtigen Duivel', translatable more or less as the 'unfortunate devil', is one of the oldest Brussels' estaminet, a little cafè. On the menu: carbonnades Flamandes, chicon au gratin, ballekes sauce tomate, and stoemp saucisse et lard, among other delicacies. Meanwhile, legends and history make for an interesting side dish. In the 16th century, this place used to be a hunting lodge where, one day, a group of reformed acrobats took refuge. Back then, indeed, it was a dark time for tolerance and freedom of religion. There was no mercy for people of protestant faith, such as those acrobats. The story goes that one day, as they were performing a parody titled «de spijtigen duivel» inspired to the merciless Duke of Alba, the Duke's soldiers made irruption into the place and cruelly slained the acrobats. Some time later, the only survivor, the tenant, decided to rename his refuge 'De Spijtigen Duivel' in their honour. Centuries later, Baudelaire was sitting in this cafè writing verses about Brussels. Today, I'm taking note of the number to call to make a reservation and try that tempting chicon au gratin.