I was walking to the maison communale of Uccle in the early afternoon of one unbelievably pleasant winter day, as almost everyday in the past days. Strolling under the blue March sky, I took new roads to explore a bit of Uccle. I had no particular expectations, but as soon as I turned the corner of Av. de Floréal and Alsembersesteenweg, I found myself facing Au Vieux Spijtigen Duivel. It might look like nothing worth noticing, but it had that typical, unmistakable charm that old things so well retain. That old writing font, so typical of Brussels, and the French/Flemish combination of its name suggested historical relevance at least. Turns out that the old 'Spijtigen Duivel', translatable more or less as the 'unfortunate devil', is one of the oldest Brussels' estaminet, a little cafè. On the menu: carbonnades Flamandes, chicon au gratin, ballekes sauce tomate, and stoemp saucisse et lard, among other delicacies. Meanwhile, legends and history make for an interesting side dish. In the 16th century, this place used to be a hunting lodge where, one day, a group of reformed acrobats took refuge. Back then, indeed, it was a dark time for tolerance and freedom of religion. There was no mercy for people of protestant faith, such as those acrobats. The story goes that one day, as they were performing a parody titled «de spijtigen duivel» inspired to the merciless Duke of Alba, the Duke's soldiers made irruption into the place and cruelly slained the acrobats. Some time later, the only survivor, the tenant, decided to rename his refuge 'De Spijtigen Duivel' in their honour. Centuries later, Baudelaire was sitting in this cafè writing verses about Brussels. Today, I'm taking note of the number to call to make a reservation and try that tempting chicon au gratin.
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| (C) ANP |
Venlo, cittadina dei Paesi Bassi nella provincia meridionale del Limburgo. Lungo la sua trafficata storia è stata un punto strategico sul fiume Mosa, troppo appetitoso perchè spagnoli, austriaci, prussiani o francesi se la lasciassero scappare. Ha persino fatto parte del Belgio per nove anni prima di diventare ufficialmente territorio dei Paesi Bassi dal 1839. Vi state chiedendo perchè non ne avete mai sentito parlare prima? Beh, non è tra le più note destinazioni del Paese, non è ricolma di colorati tulipani e mulini a vento come lo sono le ben più popolari province occidentali delle due Olande, non ha dune nè spiagge e gran parte del suo storico patrimonio architettonico è andato tristemente distrutto durante l'ultima guerra mondiale. Eppure c'è un'ottima ragione per trovarsi in città una volta l'anno: Vastelaovend, il carnevale locale!
Per cinque giorni la città è vestita a festa ed è popolata dagli irriducibili fans del carnevale. Allegri, entusiasti, chiacchieroni, sfoggiano sul proprio viso un'esplosione di acquarelli, brillantini e fantasia! Tra grandi e piccini non c'è distinzione, e tutti, da chi ha appena iniziato a camminare a chi ormai si muove con tre gambe, partecipano contagiosamente ai festeggiamenti pre-quaresima. E ancora, ci sono sfilate di carri messi a puntino durante l'anno, satire, scherzi e coriandoli, bande musicali che intonano localissime canzoni di carnevale, rigorosamente in dialetto, gente vestita a mò di matromonio contadino per l'ultimo giorno, e una passione che farebbe invidia persino a Venezia e a Rio de Janeiro!
Venlo non è la sola a celebrare il carnevale in stile, lo fanno anche altre città del Limburgo e della provincia del Brabante. Ma il carnevale di Venlo ha un fascino speciale, se non altro perchè è il mio preferito!
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Venlo, a town located in the province of Limburg in the Netherlands. It has long been a strategic spot on the river Maas, too important to let it go for Spanish, Austrians, Prussians or French rulers. It was even part of Belgium for nine years before becoming officially Dutch territory in 1839. Are you wondering how come you've never heard of it before? Well, it is certainly not the most known destination in the country, it lacks the windmills and the gorgeous fields of tulips that populate the popular western provinces of the two Holland-s, there are no dunes nor beaches and a great deal of its remarkable architectural heritage has sadly been lost during the last world war. Yet, there is one very good reason to visit the city once a year: Vastelaovend, the local carnival!
For five days the city is clothed in carnival colours and crowded by restless carnival fans. They are joyful, enthusiastic and exceptionally talkative. Their faces are an explosion of watercolours, glitters and creativity. What I find exceptional is that everyone, no matter the age, eagerly participates, children and grannies alike. And then there are also parades minutely prepared during the year, satires, jokes and confetti, musical groups tuning local carnival songs (in Venlo's dialect), people dressed as farmers in wedding outfit for the last day, and overal the passion of these vastelaovend lovers beats even Venice's and Rio de Janeiro's celebrations!
Venlo is not the only city to celebrate carnival in style, other cities in Limburg and Brabant do so. But Venlo's vastelaovend has a special charm and, as it's now obvious, is my favourite!
