Night on Thai train

Who would have thought that Thai trains were so good! In South America it was a pity that the train was never an option for serious travelling, although the bus service was excellent. Here instead it has been a pleasant surprise. As I was heading to Chang Mai, in the north west of the country, I got a night train of about 13 hours from BKK. I must say my mind immediately drew a parallelism with Italian trains and service, and the result of the comparison is, shamefully, Thailand-Italy 1-0. Thai trains are comfortable, spatious, clean, nowhere stinky, and the service is impeccable. From the kitchen, waiters come and go asking you if you would like anything for dinner or breakfast and would cook for you and serve it to you. Others go around offering fresh orange juice, snacks and fruit. All most useful details are there or smartly hidden for keeping more space free. I just travelled in a normal second class and there were also matrasses on bed, good pillow, airco, silk courtains, duvet, towel...I must also say that the train was made in Japan (probably the ones they used in the XIX century and then donated to Thailand after the first innovation!), but I must also remind you that Thailand is still in many ways a developing country...Well done then.

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Chi avrebbe mai pensato che i treni tailandesi fossero così buoni (non da magnà)! Quando eravamo in Sudamerica, tristemente il treno non era mai una vera opzione di viaggio, anche se il loro servizio bus era eccellente. Qui, invece, il treno é stata una piacevole scoperta. Diretta a Chang Mai, nel nord ovest del paese, ho preso un treno notte (13 ore circa) da BKK. Devo dire che la mia mente ha subito fatto un parallelismo con treni e servizio italiani e il risultato del confronto aimé e di 1-0 per la Tailandia. I treni tailandesi sono comodi, spaziosi, puliti, da nessuna parte maleodoranti, e il servizio impeccabile. I/le camerieri/e vengono dalla cucina a chiederti cosa vuoi per cena o colazione, lo cucinano e te lo portano. Altri girano per le carrozze offrendo spremute d'arancia fresche, snack o frutta. Tutti i più utili dettagli sono lì o intelligentemente nascosti per risparmiare spazio. Ho viaggiato in una normale seconda classe e c'erano anche materassi, un buon cuscino, aria condizionata, tende di seta, coperta, tovaglia...Altro che trenitalia! Per correttezza devo dire anche che il treno era un made in Japan (probabilmente tra quelli usati tipo nel XIX sec. e poi donati alla Tailandia alla prima innovazione!), ma é giusto anche ricordare che la Tailandia é un paese per tanti aspetti ancora in via di sviluppo...e bravi!

My first WAT

Believer, incenses and flowers
at the feet of the Buddha
at Wat Indrawiharn

It was a special day today! Not a holiday, but somehow a special day that involved Buddha, family reunion and yellow tuk tuk. No matter how many times I have asked why and how, I didn't get what it was. What was way too clear is that yellow tuk tuk where going to take people all around for a fixed price of 10 THB, about 25 cents. What better solution than speeding through the city with a cheap, colourful and local tuk tuk? Better than a standard taxi, better than a bus for the tuk tuk driver is also a sort of guide, and definitely better than walking since Bangkok is such a huge place! And this is how I've been to lots of Wat today.

The Wat is a temple or monastery temple, typical of Thailand but also Cambodia and Laos. They seem to have many roles, but the ones I have seen so far are all of religious use. Temples are an oasis of tranquillity and peace for the senses in a chaotic, noisy and crowded place such as Bangkok. The contrast couldn't be clearer: the noise of the city vs the calmness of the temples, the smog and dust vs the sweet aroma of incenses and flowers, the dirt of the streets vs the spotless neatness of the temples, the insistence of sellers and tuk tuk drivers vs the few words of the monks, the casual heap of colours around vs the studied harmony of the temples' colours between golden buddha's, precious stones and marbles, the hot in the city vs the freshness of the temple, and finally the hectic pace of the traffic vs the simple grace of those who pray. And I can't help wondering whether it is thanks to the Buddha that here, despite everything, people are so favourably willing...

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Ghirlande/Flowers' garlands
at Wat Benchamabophit

Oggi era un giorno speciale! Non di vacanza, ma un giorno speciale che in qualche modo aveva a che fare con Budda, riunioni familiari e tuk tuk gialli. Nonostante tutte le volte che abbia chiesto come e perché non c'é stato modo di capire di cosa si  trattasse. Quello che era chiaro chiarissimo é che i tuk tuk gialli avrebbero portato la gente in giro per un prezzo fisso di 10 THB, circa 25 centesimi. E quale miglior modo di sfrecciare per la città se non con un tuk tuk economico, colorato e locale? Meglio del tipico taxi, meglio di un bus dato che l'autista di tuk tuk é anche una sorta di guida, e sicuramente meglio che camminare dato che Bangkok é enorme! E questo é come oggi sono stata a tanti Wat. 

Il Wat é un templio o complesso di templi, tipico della Tailandia ma anche del Laos e della Cambogia. A quanto pare hanno funzioni diverse, ma quelli visti fin ora sono tutti di uso religioso. I templi sono una vera oasi di tranquillità e di pace per i sensi in un posto così caotico, rumoroso ed affollato come Bangkok. Il contrasto non potrebbe che essere più evidente: il rumore della città contro la calma dei templi, lo smog e la polvere contro la dolce fragranza di incensi e ghirlande di fiori, lo sporco delle strade contro l'immacolata pulizia dei templi, l'insistenza di venditori e autisti di tuk tuk contro le poche essenziali parole dei monaci, il casuale ammucchio di colori contro la studiata armonia dei colori del tempio tra Budda d'oro, marmi e pietre preziose, il caldo umido della città contro la freschezza all'interno di un tempio e, infine, il ritmo febbrile del traffico contro la compostezza di chi prega. E non posso che chiedermi, tra me e me, se non sia grazie al Buddha che qui, nonostante tutto, la gente sia così ben disposta d'animo...

Bangkok, first impressions

Driving from the airport to the centre.
Pineapples, talisman, the driver calling

I survive to a flight of 12 hours plus an endless stop over in India and arrive in Thailand at 8 am, but my body clearly thinks it's definitely time to go to bed instead. Whatever, I'm in Bangkok, I saw rice fields from the plane!! I pick up my backpack and walk towards the exit. As soon as I'm out of the airport I get literally overwhelmed by the first breath of tropical air, humid, warm, heavy. I get a ticket to the centre and sit on the best spot: I have to take photo's! 

Constructions are everywhere, highways, buildings, in the outskirts of the capital it is all a mix. Glass buildings, law simple roofs all attached together, pile dwellings, trash in the water, a Buddhist temple, a mosque, a van carrying pineapples, the talisman over the driver's head, bridges, turning highway, more buildings, more houses, more trash. Click, click, click! Someone's sleeping naked under a bridge. No click, no photo this time. Little temples at the entrance of neighbourhoods or houses. We enter the city centre. Ombrellas against the sun, a monk in saffron colour, children crossing the streets without waiting for any green light. Taxi, tuk tuk and scooters everywhere. Oh look, scooters wear helmets here! Click click click!

I get off, start to walk towards the Democracy monument. I have a map, a backback and a foreign look...irresistible for locals. 'Miss, tuk tuk?', no-thanks-face, 'Miss, where are you from?' 'Italia' 'Oh, Italia good, Baggio Buddha!'...ahahah, how cool! Wait, that's a drop, oops, and a thunder! Not even time to realise and it's already raining on my head. A thunderstorm. It will last for hours, while I seek refuge under the umbrella of a smiling old woman sellings beverages. 'I might take a tuk tuk after all'. And there he comes, this man looking more like a Vietnamese, smiling and teethless, and his green tuk tuk, ready to drive me through the rain. I'm the happiest girl when I enter my room and abandon myself on the bed. 

Tomorrow, as a good tourist would do, I'll go to the temples along the Chao Phraya river...

Sopravvivo a un volo di 12 ore, piú un lungo scalo in India e arrivo in Tailandia alle 8 del mattino, ma il corpo pensa invece che sia decisamente ora d'andare a letto! Ma insomma, chi se ne importa, sono a Bangkok, ho visto un sacco di risaie dall'aereo! Prendo il mio zaino e cammino verso l'uscita. Non appena esco dall'aereoporto vengo sopraffatta dalla brima boccata d'aria tropicale, umida, calda, pesante! Prendo un biglietto per il centro e mi siedo sul posto migliore: ho foto da scattare!

Ci sono costruzioni ovunque, autostrade, palazzi, nella periferia della capitale é tutto un mix. Palazzi di vetro, tetti semplici e bassi tutti attaccati, palafitte, spazzatura in acqua, un tempio buddista, una moschea, un furgoncino carico di ananas, il talismano sulla testa dell'autista, ponti, autostrada in curva, ancora palazzi, ancora più case e spazzatura. Click, zic, zac! Qualcuno dorme seminudo sotto un ponte. Stavolta niente scatto, niente foto. Piccoli tempietti all'entrata di un quartiere o diuna casa. E siamo nel centro della città. Ombrelli contro il sole, un monaco in color zafferano, bambini che attraversano senza aspettare il verde. Taxi, tuk tuk e motorino dappertutto. Guarda un pó, si mettono il casco qui! Zic zac scatto!

Scendo dal bus, comincio a camminare verso il monumento alla democrazia. Ho una mappa, uno zaino in spalla e un look straniero...sono praticamente irresistibile per i locali. 'Signorina, tuk tuk?' faccia della serie no-grazie, 'Signorina, da dove viene?' 'Italia' 'Oh, Italia, l'Italia mi piace, Baggio Budda!'...che risata, troppo forte! Aspetta, ma quella é una goccia, e quello un tuono! Non ho neanche il tempo di far mente locale che giá mi piove in testa. Un temporale. Durerà per ore, mentre cerco rifugio sotto l'ombrellone di una nonnetta sorridente che vende bibite. 'Magari lo prendo un tuk tuk'. Ed eccolo lí, un ometto che sembra più un vietnamita, sorridente, sdentato e col suo verde tuk tuk pronto a guidarmi sotto la pioggia. Non appena entro in stanza e mi abbandono sul letto, sono la ragazza più felice che c'é.

Da brava turista, domani andrò ai templi lungo il fiume Chao Phraya...non ve lo perdete...

Barcelona en 24 horas

That favourite square of mine

Arriving at El Prat aeropuerto palm trees and a fresh sea breeze welcome us in Catalunya! The bus leads us all directly to the centre on Plaza Catalunya where all the tourists suddenly appear to be. I hear Italian all around, quite a lot of American-English and I realize that Barcelona is a tourist destination that suits all ages. School kids, teenagers, young ones seeking fiestas, older ones enjoying the freedom of their retirement, entire families. There's something for everyone. At the boquería I have the slight sensation to be ripped off with a cocco-ananas juice for 2,50...although my wondering disappears at its fresh and delicious taste. At Port Vell dozens of northern white skins together with sun-dependent southamericans plus me enjoy the sun on this summerish spring day. Quick metro to Parc Güell and yet again on another tourist spot, but rightly so. How could you not like the genius of Gaudí?!  I have the time to discuss that when I'll be making my house, I'll have a patio just like that, with different mashed tiles put together in a new colourful collage...and then on to the Sagrada Familia, where works continue and the masterpiece looks different every time. We're so lucky we don't have to queue! Now its interiors are basically completed, the temple is welcoming and it looks beautiful! Later on, a walk around the Barri Gotic leaves us mouth open!  Going through old Roman roads and walls, Medieval buildings and streets, we walk all the way down to Santa Maria del Mar (one of my favourite squares in the city by the way) and we are just on time to catch the last rays of sun at the beach, Barceloneta. It is time for eating or at least tapear (thought only specific places in Andalucía really know what tapear is all about!). We end up doing the latter and talking to a couple of Argentinians improvising tango around my favourite square. The night is still young and streets are crowded 24/7. Back to El Prat airport, a group of Spanish families clap the welcome to their highschool children coming back from London! Hugs and kisses for everyone by everyone and see you tomorrow. Even they are happy to be (back) in Spain. Ah, España, what a vibe! or as that package of cigarettes alarms :'Spain provokes a fatal addiction to the good life'!

More photos of BCN here

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Crystalline water at the lower lakes

This is another Croatia. Away from the more expensive coast there is a green green land. Made of mountains and lakes, and serving meat dishes instead. The National Park of Plitvice Lakes stands right in the middle of it, a lovely oasis where lakes and waterfalls follow one another. It's the biggest National Park of Croatia and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979. Enjoy some photos here!

Za-nzi-dar

Sunset in Zadar

Feeling like home! ...at least it seems so: Zadar is caressed by the cold bora as it happens in Trieste, its centre has the smoothest roman roads like in Venice, and a blue blue sea laps its shores, like home. And if it wasn't that locals are able to speak and understand so much Italian, one might think to be on the other side of the Adriatic coast. The girl we meet the first night at the restaurant Bruschetta (yes, like bruschetta...) tells us she studies Italian at the University in Zadar. She likes it and while she speaks Italian with us, she calls her city Zara. She says fish is delicious here, particularly fresh in this very restaurant. She is 22, wears big rings earrings and leopardskin shoes with a 12cm heal. I'm wearing jeans and converse and have fading make-up...she concludes I can't be older than 21. Lol. I guess local standards are high here! Before leaving, she briefs us on the disco panorama of Zadar. Lively, vibrant. We're in the Balkans after all!

Fish is indeed fresh and delicious here. I mean, that doesn't need explanations, it's the blue fin Mediterranean product we are talking about! According to local customs it goes more or less like this: Joe orderes fish, the waiter goes back to the kitchen and, before cooking anything, shows the freshly fished fish to Joe; Joe sees that it's indeed fresh and thanks the waiter; the fish is grilled/cooked/stewed/whatever and ready; the waiter comes back, showing once again the chef's results to Joe and starts to clean it from the fishbones for him; the waiter ends its job and Joe can finally eat its fish. Ah, what a service!

With our full tummies we stroll through the old centre, separated by the mainland by a bridge, nowadays, or by a moat, back in the years. The sun shines, the atmosphere is welcoming and the sea organ is absolutely captivating! Architect Nikola Bašić had the great idea to create by the sea in Zadar an experimental musical instrument which plays by sea waves...check out this youtube video! and enjoy this photo album!

Welcome to Republika Hrvatska!

Flying over the coast of Dalmatia

Croatia is one of Italy's neighbours and yet I waited 25 years before visiting. I had more or less the idea that Croatia offered a lot as in islands, coasts and beaches, as any Mediterranean country. Then I did a bit of internet search, watched photos of friends who had already been there, bought a footprint guide and finally realized I knew nothing about it. Lol.

The national tourist slogan sells Croatia as 'the Mediterraneo as it once was', which is quite promising. And possibly true. We arrived to Zadar by flying over Dalmatia's coast and it was a spectacle to see all those uncountable dazzling islands scattered all along the coast! How many could we count? One, ten, twenty over just a few kilometers? And what did we actually spot? Between deserted sort of atolls and populated green islands, we must have even seen some of the many famous National Parks, such as Koronati, who knows!?

So, briefly, what we are going to do in these few days ahead is to: eat a lot of fish (on the coast), see the attraction #1 of the country (the natural park of Plitvice Lakes), learn a couple of words of Croatian language, or actually Serbo-Croatian, with which one can do quite a lot in the Balkans. Note well: expectations go beyond the words vino (wine) and pivo (bier)!